Wang Wei (701-761) was a high-level government official who lived at a time in which Buddhism was flourishing in China. During middle-age, he began practicing Zen and eventually quit his job to retire to a hermitage in the Chang-an mountains, a center of Buddhist activity at the time. He then devoted the rest of his life to Zen practice and to poetry, calligraphy, music, and landscape painting, for he excelled at all four art forms. Very few of Wang Wei’s paintings or calligraphy have survived, but most of his poetry has. Along with Li Po and Tu Fu, he is considered one of the all-time top three Chinese poets — not a small accomplishment, for Chinese poetry goes back over three thousand years!
Wang Wei frequently wandered in the mountains visiting Zen monks and masters living in remote temples and hermitages, and he wrote many poems about these experiences. The following is one of my favorites, for it speaks to me about some fundamental practice issues in Zen and also about some personal issues I’ve dealt with in my own practice life. I’m going to look at this poem line-by-line, carefully examining it and the issues it brings up for me:
Visiting the Temple of Accumulated Fragrance
Not knowing the way
To the temple,
I enter several miles
Into cloudy peaks.
Ancient trees,
A deserted path –
Deep in the mountains,
Somewhere a bell.
The sound of a spring
Choked by towering rocks,
The color of sunlight
Chilled by green pines.
Near evening,
At the corner of an empty pool,
Calm zen subdues
poison dragons.
The poem opens with Wang Wei going to visit a Buddhist temple, which is something people still do in Oriental cultures. Temples are places of refuge, as churches are in European cultures. When people are troubled, they might go to a church and just sit down for a while to pray. When I was practicing in Japan, I noticed people doing the same thing. They would come to the temple or monastery, put some money into the donation box, offer incense, and sit quietly in front of the Buddha Hall altar for a while. Some would stroll the grounds or have tea with one of the monks assigned to take care of guests, or with the abbot if he or she were available.
Temples and churches, or anywhere spiritual practices are carried out, have a special quality. They’re usually very quiet and are imbued with calming energy. Here in Omaha, there’s a beautiful cathedral that is a local landmark. I take out-of-town visitors there not only to see the building and marvel at the Spanish Renaissance architecture and finely wrought internal furnishings but also to absorb the atmosphere. It’s deeply peaceful there.
Our temple has the same feel to it. Many people have told me how peaceful and calm they feel as soon as they come through the door. This soothing energy derives from the spiritual practices we do, and there’s been a lot of zazen, chanting, and bowing done here over the past twenty-two years. The energy from these practices permeates the place. We’re located on a tree-lined street in a quiet residential neighborhood, but Omaha is a city, and like all cities, it hums and buzzes. You can feel it out on the street. But once you walk in the door, the energy is quite different, and people are transformed by it.
Perhaps to quietly absorb temple energy or to practice with the monks living there, Wang Wei sets out to visit Accumulated Fragrance Temple. However, the first stanza of his poem reads, “Not knowing the way/ to the temple,/ I enter several miles/ into cloudy peaks.” It seems as if this temple is going to be hard to find, not only the concrete, physical temple but also the place of refuge that, in the poem, the temple represents.
Sometimes, our place of refuge takes a very long time to find, and we may wander through the cloudy peaks of our lives for years and years before we find it. But, something tells us that it’s there somewhere and drives us to continue to search. We may think that once we find this place, the journey will be over, and we’ll experience perfect bliss and contentment for the rest of our lives. But my experience is that this journey is not a one-time thing. We repeat it over and over, day by day, moment by moment, for our lives frequently become cloudy, and sometimes, the path becomes unclear. This is how it’s been in my life and probably for all of us. We keep having to work out the same problems – work, family, relationships – day after day.
Wang Wei starts out on his journey not exactly knowing the way to the temple. Maybe he yearns to find a quiet place to let things settle out and get some relief from difficulties in his life. I sometimes yearn for a place of refuge from my difficulties, even though I live in a temple, which is such a place for the people who come here! I started practicing Zen on a daily basis under the guidance of a teacher in the late seventies, so I’ve been at it now for over thirty years. Six years of that was in monasteries in California and Japan, a year-and-a-half was at a monastery is Southeast Minnesota, and the last twenty-two years have been as the abbot of our temple in Omaha. I’ve lived in temples and monasteries for thirty years, but my life throughout these years has not always been sweetness and light.
In September of 1998, Rev. Kyoki Roberts, who came with me when I moved to Omaha nine years ago, left and settled in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, where she has established Zen Center of Pittsburgh. Kyoki came to Omaha as my student, and we eventually completed Dharma Transmission together. She was priest-ordained in 1993 and we practiced here together until she left. She is not only my oldest disciple but has been my closest dharma friend, and for many years, she was also my co-worker and assistant in administering the temple.
Then, she left, and I was alone. Eventually, a couple of other key people have left, one to pursue a new job, another out of frustration with his role here, another because of a broken marriage. We’re a very small group, so people leave big holes when they’re gone. The pool of potential Zen students is not very deep in Omaha, for this area is not exactly a hotbed of Buddhist activity, like San Francisco or New York. Buddhism and Zen are relatively new here.
With Kyoki and the others gone, it was very difficult for me, and this pattern has continued over the years. People come and people go. I’ve sometimes felt overwhelmed and found myself thinking, “How will I get everything done?” “How can I continue alone here?” Even though I’m a long-time practitioner and teacher, I’ve felt lost and alone and have had a hard time dealing with it. I deeply understand what it means to not know the way to the temple, like Wang Wei, because in a sense, the temple as refuge is not really a place. It is a place physically, but as a refuge it is not one place. It can’t be, because the only true refuge is within, not without. I’ve lost my way to “the temple as refuge” while living in “the temple as place!”
So I can relate to Wang Wei’s “Not knowing the way to the temple.” Shakyamuni Buddha taught that there’s an end to suffering, but I’ve come to realize that the end is not permanent because nothing is permanent. Whenever we fall into a negative state of mind, we have to play it through once more to the end, and then it eventually begins all over again. We lose our way and then we find it, and then, we lose it again. Early on in my practice life, I thought that once you end suffering, that’s it. It’s all over. Everything from then on is sweetness and light! But one day, I was talking with my teacher, Dainin Katagiri, about some problems at work and, he said to me, “Oh, you’re suffering – well, suffer! It’s a sure sign you’re alive.” At that moment, something clicked. “Oh,” I thought. “As long as we’re alive, we suffer. Ending it does not create permanent bliss, for suffering only comes up again.” This is Shakyamuni Buddha’s first Noble Truth.
In daily life, everything happens in a moment, and then, it’s gone. Then, there’s the next moment, and, just as quickly, it’s gone. To manifest awakened mind, we sit down and cross our legs. Enlightenment is thus manifested, and then — the moment’s gone. So we have to continue to start fresh every moment of our lives. There is no place of refuge that lasts because nothing lasts. So it’s very easy to all of a sudden get lost and then have a hard time finding the way again. Every time I read Wang Wei’s poem, and I’ve read this poem for years, I feel like I go a little deeper into it and also, as my practice deepens, into how it relates to my own life. This poem has a lot of layers, and the layer I find myself entering into most often is “not knowing and getting lost.”
In the second stanza, Wang Wei writes: “Ancient trees,/ a deserted path –/ Deep in the mountains/ Somewhere a bell.” The mood of loneliness sounded in the first stanza is carried on here, although the “ancient trees” are somewhat comforting. There’s a sense of tradition conveyed by them, for this is not new ground; others have traveled this path. In Zen, we trace our lineage all the way back to Shakyamuni Buddha through a long line of masters who actually lived. However, right now, the path is deserted. The traveler is alone on the journey. No matter how ancient the tradition, how close we are to our teachers, and how many people we practice with, we’re ultimately alone. We have to do the work ourselves. No one can pass on their experience or understanding to us, and no one can live our experiences with us. This is just the way it is, and there’s a rightness about it, which is conveyed by the ancient trees. However, it’s still lonely. The path is deserted.
The second line of this stanza is: “Deep in the mountains, somewhere a bell.” When I talked about this poem during a retreat some time ago at a temple near New York City, I inadvertently passed over this line without much comment. Later, during the question and answer period, someone said, “You know, I think that bell is really important,” and I had to agree. Most Zen temples in America don’t have an outside bell, but in Japan, every temple does, just as churches do here. The outside bell is rung every morning and evening and is quite large, sometimes four or five feet in diameter. It’s rung with a striker, usually a three or four-foot long straight tree limb about six inches in diameter, suspended from the ceiling of the bell tower by two ropes – one on each end – so the striker hangs horizontally. The bell rings with a deep Bong and can be heard a long way off.
This bell is not only important to the monks – it marks the beginning and end of the monastic day – but also to people living nearby. When I was in the monastery in Japan, there was a village a half-hour walk down the mountain. The villagers complained a few times that we weren’t hitting the bell loud enough, for they couldn’t hear it. They asked us to hit it louder. Why? I’m not sure; perhaps they liked knowing that the monks and the temple were still there! Before we struck the bell, we would recite this verse: “May the sound of this bell dispel greed, anger, and delusion, and all the hardships suffered by all beings.” Perhaps the hardships suffered by the villagers were eased by the bell and that is why they would ask that we ring it loud enough for them to hear.
In the poem, the bell serves as a reminder that the temple – and the place of refuge it represents – is there, somewhere, even when we’ve lost our way to it. In our lives, we are reminded of the place of refuge in many ways, through the newsletter the temple puts out, by the Zen books on our shelves, or by the cushions in our sitting room. Because I live in a temple, I am reminded moment-by-moment where I need to go when I get lost, but when things get tough, or very busy, it’s easy to ignore these “bells” and take the night off or sleep in rather than return to the practice place.
The third stanza of the poem reads: “The sound of a spring/ Choked by towering rocks,/ The color of sunlight/ Chilled by green pines.” A spring means clean, refreshing water and is always welcome to a mountain traveler. This spring, however, is somewhere in the distance, and the water is, like the bell, unreachable, barely audible, cut off by the overwhelming, hard “towering rocks.” The sunlight, which brings brightness and light, is also cut off, “chilled” by the pines, which filter the light, dispersing and dimming it. The spring, then, cannot refresh nor can the sun provide brightness and warmth. The path is not only “deserted” it is also cold, dim, and hard, as our lives are sometimes, especially when we are lonely, depressed, angry, or grief-stricken.
The last stanza of the poem reads: “Near evening,/ At the corner of an empty pool,/ Calm zen subdues/ poison dragons.” Wang Wei never finds the temple, but there is a satisfying end to his journey. The poet sits down by an empty pool. What is this pool? A clear pool of water? An empty garden pool in a deserted temple? The poem does not make this clear. Could it symbolically be the clear, empty pool of mind?
The poem then ends with “Calm zen subdues poison dragons.” Zen here refers to zazen, sitting meditation. What are the poison dragons? Loneliness, grief, disappointment, sorrow, fatigue – all the mind demons that plague us. Wang Wei’s journey has been difficult and lonely. He never finds the temple he was seeking, but he finds his true refuge and is healed. He sits down where he is, and through the practice of zazen, the thoughts and feelings plaguing him are subdued.
In Zen, our teaching is that what we need to do is sit down where we are, right in the middle of our lives as they are. As Zen Master Dogen says in Universally Recommended Instructions for Zazen (Fukanzazengi): “It [our way, our refuge] is never apart from this very place; what is the use of traveling around to practice?” We don’t have to go to the temple, although we do go to the temple because of what happens there, because of the quiet, calm space, because of the fellowship, the dharma friendships we cultivate there, and because the teacher is there. But ultimately, our true refuge is not the temple itself but in our acceptance of our life as it is and in our willingness to live it as it is.
A famous koan in The Book of Serenity puts it this way:
As the world Honored One [the Buddha] was walking with the congregation, he pointed to the ground with his finger and said, “This spot is good to build a sanctuary.” Indra, Emperor of the gods, took a blade of grass, stuck it in the ground, and said, “The sanctuary is built.”
The World Honored One smiled.
The introduction to this koan reads:
As soon as a single mote of dust arises, the whole earth is contained therein; with a single horse and a single lance, the land’s extended. Who is this person who can be master in any place and meet the source in everything?
That’s a really good question. My answer is: you, and me.
Of course, this is not easy, but we must be clear that we take refuge by building our sanctuary right where we are. This is accomplished by entering life fully and living it completely, as it is. As Thoreau said in Walden, “No matter how mean your life is, meet it and live it. Do not shun it and call it hard names.” Why? Because if we do, we only create more difficulty by adding avoidance, anger, and bitterness to our lives.
At times, my life as a Zen Buddhist priest and temple abbot has been difficult, for I’ve struggled with the demons of loneliness, disappointment, and overwork. I feel as if I’ve personally lived Wang Wei’s poem. Through it all, I’ve learned once again (How many times must I learn this?) that the only way to end suffering is to sit with it, enter it completely, and live it through. The practice of zazen is our true place of refuge and through this practice, we subdue the poison dragons and ready ourselves to repeat the process when they come up again.
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